Beware beauty's risky business
Tanning, lasering and pedicures may seem harmless indulgences.
Ill-trained operators and lax regulation can make them hazardous.
By Melissa DribbenInquirer Staff Writer
Had a pedicure? Pan-fried yourself in a tanning bed? Been zapped by lasers to remove hair from your nether lands?
Then you, in all likelihood, have put yourself in harm's way.
Before going under the blade for breast implants or a face lift, patients generally do research to make sure their surgeon is properly qualified and knows what to do if problems arise.
But people are more cavalier about treatments that seem less invasive. So they put themselves in the hands of strangers with iffy training who lance toes with unsterile tools, wield dangerously powerful rays of light, and sandblast tender skin.
Fortunately, the vanity gods are merciful. Most of the time, nothing bad happens.
But as the number of nail salons, indoor tanning users, and cosmetic laser spas proliferate, casualties are mounting. These beauty services have led to bacterial and fungal infections, allergic reactions, burns, scars, damaged eyesight, and cancer.
The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery reports that in a survey, nearly half of its 2,400 members said they were seeing an increase in injuries caused by non-physicians doing high-tech beauty treatments - some who have had no more than one day of training.
While there are legions of qualified doctors, electrologists, nurse practitioners and cosmeticians gorgeousify-ing skin, hair and nails - there are countless others who are, for lack of a more delicate word, hacks.
For the consumer, the trick is knowing how to identify the trustworthy from the not. And it can be quite a trick.
Regulations, professional qualifications, standards and oversight vary from state to state. In New Jersey, for example, only medical doctors may perform laser treatments, while Pennsylvania law states only that a doctor must be on-site to supervise.
Even when stringent rules are in place, however, few states keep up with inspections and enforcement. And many people who have been hurt are reluctant to take formal action.
"People are embarrassed," says Terry Bowling, a 41-year-old office worker from Pittsburgh who was badly burned by an incompetent laser technician three years ago. "When people are having a mustache removed or getting their armpits done... they don't want to come forward, so they keep their injuries to themselves."
What makes it worse is that credentials can be misleading. Some technicians without medical degrees may be very well trained and experienced, while doctors in non-skin-related specialties who have taken up lasers for profit are winging it.
"Everywhere you look, it's laser this, laser that," says Eric Bernstein, a laser surgeon with offices in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. "More and more, they're getting into the hands of inexperienced people."
So the onus remains on the consumer - to check credentials, get recommendations from others who have used the service, and weigh the potential benefits from any cosmetic treatment against the risks.
Otherwise, things could get ugly.
Nails
No matter how carefully done, a pedicure exposes you to risk because it messes with the skin and cuticle around nails, which serve as a kind of protective seal.
"Cuticles are there for a reason. They're not meant to be touched," says Tracey Vlahovic, a podiatrist on the faculty of Temple University's School of Podiatric Medicine. "By pushing back the cuticle, you compromise the integrity of the tissue."
You may believe that high-priced nail spas with cushy chairs, sultry orchids and complimentary chardonnay are much more sanitary than a neighborhood nail salon where a mani-pedi costs $20 and the staff watches Korean soap operas.
Not necessarily.
Some low-budget salons are extremely conscientious. And conversely, $60 worth of foot pampering doesn't guarantee you'll be fungus-free.
At one elegant day spa in New Jersey, an overzealous nail technician nearly cost Christine Finken her toe.
Finken, a conference organizer from Gloucester Township, began getting pedicures three years ago after she was diagnosed with breast cancer. "When I was getting chemotherapy and had no hair, I would go to treat myself," says Finken, 54.
But in April, a technician cut her while trimming the cuticles on the big toe of her right foot. That night, her toe ached. A week later it was swollen and infected.
The pain, Finken says, was punishing. "I can understand why, in the Middle Ages, they tortured people by hurting their nails," she says. "I would have told you anything!"
Eventually, she ended up seeing Vlahovic, who cut away alarming chunks of her toe and nail, put her on antibiotics and gave her a lecture, which at this point, Finken hardly needed.
"I'm very anti-pedicure," says Vlahovic. Of the 30 or so new patients she treats at her weekly clinic, half a dozen have fungus. Several times a month, she says, a woman will come in with a yeast or bacterial infection. All because of pedicures.
It took several weeks of antibiotics for Finken's toe to begin to return to normal.
"Now I warn my colleagues not to get pedicures," she says. "But no one ever thinks it can happen to them."
Laser
The concept couldn't be more seductive.
Instead of turning to Medieval Depilatory Torture devices such as sharp blades, noxious ointments, or hot wax and muslin, you go for a little light treatment. Someone points a wand at your unwanted hair, and poof! Gone. Painlessly. Almost forever.
Or so you would like to believe.
As more people seek cosmetic laser treatments to remove hair, spider veins, tattoos and wrinkles, more are being harmed.
"We're seeing a tremendous increase," says Roy Geronomous, past president of the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery.
"It used to be we'd see a few a month. Now we're seeing a few a week. It's coming from homes, spas, salons, people working out of makeshift offices all pretending to be medically qualified."
Regardless of state regulations, abuses occur. Laser Me Beautiful had been a thriving business for several years in Collingswood. Last year, The Inquirer reported that the owner, podiatrist Steven Nielson, was performing laser treatments and had harmed one of his customers when removing an arm tattoo.
In May, the business closed and Nielson signed an interim order voluntarily surrendering his license. The state Consumer Affairs Division is investigating numerous charges that Nielson was illegally performing not only laser treatments, but giving Botox injections and doing liposuction in his home-based office.
Reached by phone last month, Nielson referred questions to his attorney, Alma Saravia, who said, "We are evaluating all the options."
Plastic surgeons and dermatologists command premium prices for their expertise in cosmetic lasering, generally charging several hundred dollars for each treatment. And because multiple treatments usually are required, the bills can be stratospheric.
Terry Bowling was thinking more about budget than safety three years ago when she went to the Steliotes Dental Spa near Pittsburgh, which was offering a special discount on laser hair removal.
She was greeted by a woman in a long, white coat. "I thought she was the doctor." Bowling asked, she says, if her deep tan was a problem and was told no.
Wrong. The light intensity needs to be adjusted for different toned skin. As soon as the treatment began, Bowling's skin began to blister. The pain was hideous.
Two days later, she went to see plastic surgeon Karen Roche.
"There will always be some sleazebag to do something they're not qualified to do," says Roche. "But why isn't our state doing anything to protect the public?"
Bowling filed a complaint with the state of Pennsylvania and sued the spa. A settlement was reached. Most of the money, Bowling says, went to pay her medical bills.
"This is a serious, troubling problem that we face," says Basil Merendes, commissioner of the Pennsylvania Bureau of Professional and Occupational Affairs. He describes the agency as "complaint driven" and says that unless people report problems, the state can't address them.
Doctors counted 777 burns on Bowling's body. Although the marks have faded, her legs have a permanent checkerboard pattern that becomes more visible when she goes out in the sun.
"I haven't been to the beach. ... I haven't worn shorts or a skirt. I don't show my legs anymore. ... I was scared to death that I'd be scarred for life," she says. "And I am."
Jennifer DeHuff, 24, has been going to tanning salons since she was 16 - despite both of her parents' surviving cancer.
"They said I was foolish," she said of her unlimited tanning membership at Second Sun on Second Street. "But it's a fun thing to do. All the people I hung out with did it." So far, she's had no problems, but most dermatologists say she's taking unnecessary chances with her health.
The dangers of indoor tanning continue to be bitterly debated by the medical community and the tanning salon industry. "The evidence that ultraviolet radiation causes skin cancer is overwhelming and convincing," began a recent paper by the Skin Cancer Foundation. "Despite this information, the use of indoor tanning devices which emit ultraviolet light ... has never been more popular."
To the $2 billion-plus indoor tanning industry and the 30 million people who put themselves into UV cocoons every year, the benefits of getting Vitamin D, an endorphin rush, and a prettier color on cheeks at both ends outweigh any fear of cancer down the road.
"The message is not getting across to minors because minors and people in their 20s feel that they're indestructible," says Leonard Dzubow, former head of Dermatological and Mohs Surgery at the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania and a member of the Skin Cancer Foundation. "When you're that young, it's hard to project what the consequences will be."
In May, for the third time, bills were introduced into the Pennsylvania legislature to regulate and license tanning salons and keep minors from using their services without an adult present. Previous efforts have been defeated.
This time, the proposed laws would require salons to register with the state. They would also amend the criminal code so that local police could monitor noncompliance, said Bruce Brod, the legislative coordinator of the Pennsylvania Academy of Dermatology.
Although 30 states have licensing requirements for tanning salons, Pennsylvania does not (a similar bill in New Jersey needs only the governor's signature). "Anyone can have a tanning salon and anyone can tan as much as they want," Brod said. "There are no sanitation requirements, no requirements for protective eyewear, no requirements for age."
Those in favor of the laws feel they are necessary because of the rising incidence of melanoma, the most common cancer in young women, with rates jumping more than 60 percent since the 1970s.
Although dermatologists are nearly unanimous in their belief that any kind of tanning increases the risk of skin cancer, they do not agree on how to address the problem.
"Millions of people are tanning," says Steve Feldman, a professor of dermatology and public health sciences at Wake Forest School of Medicine. "The dermatologists are seeing the ones who get skin cancer. But a lot of people do it and don't have anything major happen to them."
Feldman says that in the absence of hard evidence, doctors may be overreacting. In tanning, as in nonphysician laser treatment, the majority of people have no problem, he says.
"I'm not saying tanning isn't bad for you. It is. Do I think people should go to tanning beds? No.
Do I think government should ban them? No."
Some salons voluntarily adopt policies to protect their customers' health.
"I want people to be educated," says Joe White, who has owned salons for more than 20 years. "I don't say it's safe, but you can reduce your risks while enjoying the benefits."
His salons have always denied access to minors without an adult's permission, he says, carefully monitored clients' exposure, and required goggles at all times.
White has skin cancer on his leg. He doesn't believe his lifelong tanning habit was a factor. And he still tans - regularly.
Contact staff writer Melissa Dribben at 215-854-2590 or mdribben@phillynews.com
Tips for Safer Beautification
Laser Procedures
Make sure a physician is on site and available to answer questions.
Check credentials and ask questions. Ask about background and training. What if something goes wrong? Who will perform the procedure? Can I see your before- and-after photographs? Are there any side effects?
Find out if the laser system is appropriate for your skin type, hair color, complexion and body area.
Request a test patch. It's easier to deal with complications on a small area than massive anatomical territory.
Be wary if the cost is dramatically lower than the average. Don't rely on price as the primary factor in choosing where to go.
Don't be afraid to walk away if it doesn't feel right.
Nails
Bring your own tools, including emery boards.
Ask about sanitary standards. How do they clean their equipment and how often? How often do they change the filters in their foot massagers?
Don't have your cuticles cut.
Don't shave your legs before putting your feet into a pedicure whirlpool. Tiny nicks in the skin can expose you to infection.
Make sure the technician has a cosmetology license that is current and visibly displayed.
If your fingers or toes become red or sore after a procedure, see a doctor. Don't wait until it gets worse.
Tanning Salons
Most dermatologists say don't use them at all, especially if you're under 18. But if you must:
Limit your exposure, and make sure a timer is set.
Use goggles to protect your eyes. Make sure the goggles fit snugly and that they are sterilized after each use.
Consider your medical history. Some conditions, such as lupus, diabetes or cold sores, can be aggravated through exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Your skin may be more sensitive to artificial light if you use certain medications - for example, antihistamines, tranquilizers or birth-control pills.
SOURCES: American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS); U.S. Food and Drug Administration
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Mineral-Based Makeup Rocks Beauty Industry
By KATHRYN WEXLERThe Miami Herald
It's the latest trend in makeup, and yet its ingredients are as old as the hills.
Minerals are popping up in foundations, lipsticks and eye shadows. They're said to soothe acne. They're supposed to slap down sun rays that damage skin.They're getting so much good press, you'd think they could also throw a dinner party for 12.
"We're really happy the craze of mineral makeup is here," said Staci Wilson, vice president of brand awareness for Bare Escentuals, a makeup line that has incorporated minerals since 1976. "For years, it was hard to get people to comprehend what we offered."
The line is now sold at Sephora and on QVC, a home-shopping television network.
Competition in the mineral-makeup industry has soared recently.
Spas and salons in particular all seem to carry their own lines of mineral makeup. That's because trade shows are chock full of mineral-makeup manufacturers that can put any label on generic containers of powdery rose blush.
A few of the major beauty companies have jumped on the mineral bandwagon, including Neutrogena, with its Mineral Sheers foundations and eye shadows.
Peruse major makeup counters, however, and you'll find few products advertised as mineral makeup. Among Estee Lauder brands, only Aveda and Origins have lines that promote rock-derived ingredients.
But that doesn't mean other cosmetics don't have minerals in them, said Harvey Gedeon, head of research and development for Estee Lauder brands. Zinc oxide, for instance, is commonly added because it adds sunblock, and iron oxide is a colorant. But marketing for such products doesn't always play up those ingredients."
It's more about positioning to me, than technical," Gedeon said.
The buzz about mineral makeup is that it's actually good for the skin.
Paula Begoun, who studies thousands of products a year and criticizes many of them in her books, including "Don't Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me" (Beginning Press, $27.95), now in its sixth edition, isn't impressed."
Minerals are drying, and not all (skin) types can use them," said Begoun, whose Web site is CosmeticsCop.com. They are messy, and can look powdery and thick, she said. "I don't see it as quite the slam dunk as it's advertised."
Zinc is thought to be an antiinflammatory. And minerals in general are said to cause less interference with normal skin processes because they sit atop the skin, rather than get absorbed the way regular makeup does.
Said Robin McGee, vice president of business development for Caleel + Hayden, manufacturer of GloMinerals, a line launched in 2002: "Your natural oils and waters continue to flow naturally, whereas other makeup suffocates the skin."
Because the makeup industry is unregulated, there are few, if any independent medical studies addressing claims that mineral makeup is beneficial to the skin. Companies say they do their own studies, but those are rarely released.
Minerals don't come in a rainbow of colors.
Rose and violet shades -- not to mention electric blue -- give chemists heartburn. So many mineral companies add dyes to some products, and that's not necessarily a bad thing, said McGee, who is based in Denver."
For 100 percent pure minerals without any artificial colors, you might have a line that sacrifices color and wearability," she said.
Loose powders are the purest form of mineral makeup. Compresses require some binding agents. And liquids have more additives.
But not all minerals are created equal, according to purists. Talc is often vilified by those who say it accentuates wrinkles. But if this is an argument you buy, you'll have to dump many of your cosmetics; it's a common component in makeup, from Maybelline to Chanel.
Gedeon thinks talc is getting a bad rap.
"Talc is used because it's very transparent and tactile and soft. It's a natural ingredient. There's absolutely nothing wrong with talc."
Begoun echoes that defense: "I have seen no evidence that a well-formulated talc powder makes wrinkles look worse."Minerals used in cosmetics are all the same grade.
The difference, say industry insiders, lies in the milling process.
The more that minerals are ground, the finer and silkier they become, appearing less shiny on the skin.A gritty feel means the minerals haven't been milled into small enough particles."
You can literally put a bunch of mineral makeups in front of you and feel the texture of one being more gritty or silky," said Staci Wilson, of Bare Escentuals.
So smudge away.
MINERAL TIPS
Here is expertise from Alejandro Falcon, a Miami-based national makeup artist with Caleel + Hayden, which manufactures GloMinerals.
Moisturize first.
Minerals don't adhere well to dry skin.
Use brushes with natural bristles.
That's if you're applying loose powder or compacts.
Use brushes with synthetic fibers.
Liquid minerals require these brushes because they resist absorption.
Wash your brushes.
Use a light shampoo -- no conditioner -- on your natural bristles; a gentle facial cleanser or baby shampoo on your synthetic brushes.
Apply evenly.
Too much mineral makeup will give off a cakey, heavy look.
Too little, and the sunblock effects won't work as well.
WHAT'S IN YOUR MINERAL MAKEUP
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide: These natural pigments stop UVA and UVB rays.
Mica: These tiny particles reflect light off the face and are meant to minimize lines.
Bismuth oxychloride: Adds shine to the makeup.
Iron oxide: Adds (limited) color to the concoction, from black to red, orange and yellow.
Malachite: A light reflector to brighten skin.
Dyes: There just aren't any rocks the color of some of those eye shadows and lipsticks.
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Avoid the Toxins: Four Ranges With a Purer Approach
NAKED
* ONE of the more affordable ranges of natural beauty products. Using plant, flower and mineral-based detergents, the range is on average 97 per cent natural, and around a third of the price of high- end organic labels. They cover all toiletry concerns from body scrubs to bath soaks, including Manuka Honey hand lotion and White Ginger Laid Bare Refreshing Body Wash, GBP 3.99, left. All are available at most Boots stores nationwide.
NEAL'S YARD
* ANOTHER great alternative to the high-street choices, Neal's Yard works on the principle that what we put on our skin, can go into our bodies. They eschew the use of many chemicals, including parabens, with the aim of reducing the amount of toxins in our bodies and in the environment. Covering all aspects of holistic health, its natural cosmetic products like this Rose Body Cream will luxuriate without overloading your skin. Their trademark dark blue bottles and jars also look fab on your bathroom shelf. Go to www.nealsyard remedies.com
DR HAUSCHKA
* MADE famous by celebrity fans such as Madonna, the Dr Hauschka range is one of the leading natural alternatives to traditional cosmetics. It uses bio-dynamically or organically grown herbs (so fewer chemicals) as much as is commercially viable. Plants, petals and herbs are gathered by hand at sunrise and the products are developed using a rhythmical method of extraction rather than alcohol (which can dry some sensitive skins). The Dr Hauschka's Toned Day Cream is a tinted version of the best-selling Rose Day Cream (which is rumoured to be a favourite of Kate Moss) that moisturises while adding a gentle healthy glow. Available from Harvey Nichols, Space NK or www.drhauschka.co.uk
AUBREY
* THIS cosmetics range is 100 per cent natural and is never tested on animals. Synthetic chemicals are replaced by coconut oil, essential fatty acids and a natural preservative of citrus seed. Try the organic shampoo which has no parabens or petrochemical detergents (such as sodium laurel sulphate), priced at GBP 8.99. Available from Real Foods in Edinburgh (0131-557 1911) or Grassroots in Glasgow (0141-353 3278).
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Ageless beauty: '90s supermodels still in Vogue
By Robin Givhan
THE WASHINGTON POST
The familiar face of model Linda Evangelista smiles from the cover of August's Vogue magazine, an issue devoted to aging. Evangelista, 41, wears a black Bottega Veneta dress with sterling silver chain-link straps, and her blond hair with its artfully dark roots is brushed back, except for a few messy strands jutting out from behind one ear. Reflexively there is an urge to smooth her hair down, but intuitively one knows that the asymmetry is fashionably intentional.
Evangelista is part of the generation of mannequins who in the 1990s were popularly dubbed "supermodels." The rules for what truly defined these hyperbolic beings were never made clear but they included regular appearances on the catwalk and in glossy magazines, enormous salaries and the average person having some vague first-name familiarity with them. The most famous of these were Linda, Christy and Naomi.
That troika is back in the spotlight and just as stunning. Evangelista recently modeled for designer Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent and has turned up on the red carpet glamorously enveloped in YSL ruffles. Her appearance on Vogue's cover marks the first time this year that the magazine has used a model, rather than a celebrity, in that position.
Christy Turlington is also in the August issue, starring in a story that pronounces "red is the new black." (One assumes that cover line was written in a frothy fit of sarcasm and cheekiness, lest the September issue command readers to "Think pink!") Turlington notes that she was lured back into the modeling limelight thanks to a job offer from Donatella Versace.
Naomi Campbell never went away, although she has judiciously edited the frequency of her runway sashays. But her work life has continued virtually uninterrupted except for those occasions when, after being accused of assaulting assistants with cellphones and PDAs, she has had to spend time in anger management classes or the courtroom. Her perp walk is not nearly as glamorous as the powerful strut she favors on the catwalk.
These women are not trying to revive the hectic glory days when they dominated fashion. They don't need to work that hard, and besides, there are babies, marriages and other business ventures to occupy their time. But their return gives fashion aficionados a pleasant break from the umpteenth Lindsay Lohan-Hilary Duff-Mischa Barton-Olsen twin picture. And in comparison to the wan creatures who currently sleepwalk down the runway, the supermodels possess a stage presence that is mesmerizing. There is something more than mere beauty that draws the eye.
Turlington is 37 and Campbell is 36 now. Evangelista is the grande dame. (In model years, she's the equivalent of 82.) It would be warm and fuzzy to say these women are especially intriguing because of laugh lines or because they exude a greater sense of themselves thanks to the wisdom of age. But even in their 20s, they were able to animate their faces, express emotion through their eyes and force people to stop and stare. And truth be told, there are no lines of any sort in evidence. In fact, Evangelista happily cops to using Botox and even serves up a couple of referrals to doctors in New York and Los Angeles.
There is no empathetic balm in knowing that Evangelista is 41 instead of, say, 19. She still possesses the sort of beauty that stops traffic. That's why she's a highly paid model who years ago famously noted that she wouldn't roll out of bed for less than $10,000. A dozen syringes of Botox later and the average woman is no closer to Evangelistadom.
Throughout the magazine's August issue, which details how to look fashionable from one's 20s until teetering on the edge of one's centennial, there are non-models used as exemplars of style. Several of the women were particular beauties almost from birth. Others have the benefits of wealth: the best doctors, beauty treatments, nutritionists, relaxing vacations. The average woman doesn't have their advantages, just as she will never have Evangelista's cheekbones or her almond-shaped eyes. Vogue has never been in the business of exalting the average.
What is reassuring about that cover, however, is its familiarity. Evangelista has posed and vamped through fashion's obsession with ostentation, minimalism, grunge, tartiness, bohemia and elegance. She took a break and now she's back for grunge: the remix. Over the years, she altered her hair color and changed her body language with each shift of the fashion tides. But through it all, she also always looked like herself. In an industry of planned obsolescence, she is still here.
The supermodel on the cover and the exceptional women on the inside pages have seen every trend and emerged unscathed. It is impossible to empathize with them. But they offer inspiration. They have tamed fashion. And their portraits are as articulate as the words of the finest motivational speaker: Fashion excludes only those who quietly acquiesce.
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Why Everyone Loves Mineral Make-up
by Eileen Sutton
Unlike traditional products, mineral make-up, which is based on a hypoallergenic loose powder that naturally nourishes the skin, contains no perfumes, talc, alcohol, dyes, mineral oil or preservatives. Not surprisingly, dermatologists are pleased.
We asked two mineral make-up producers - Diane Ranger, who created Colorescience, and Dianne York-Goldman of the La Jolla Spa MD, who created DYG Mineral Make-up - why make-up artists say it's the best kind of make-up for your skin.
Good for sensitive skin. 'Lots of women struggle with acne, allergies, dryness and clogged pores from unfriendly commercial make-up,? Ranger says. 'Mineral make-up lets you enhance skin care with positive beauty choices, not create more problems.'
Doesn't feel like a mask. For some women, traditional make-up, often heavier, can feel like a mask. Mineral make-up's texture is lighter and different. Even with more coverage, experts say you'll see a natural, translucent radiance and more of your skin, which can breathe.
Contains ingredients that are good for skin. 'For women who can't get to a spa, triple-milled minerals like titanium, gold, zinc, magnesium and aluminum naturally relax, refresh and rejuvenate the skin, and offer a genuine beauty solution in the comfort of home,' York-Goldman says.
Does not enhance wrinkles like traditional powders. 'If you have fine lines or crow's-feet, traditional make-up can cake in those places, often creating an illusion of deeper lines,' York-Goldman notes. `Minerals create real health and a glow like we had in our teens and 20s through essential vitamins, antioxidants and ingredients that actually hydrate the skin and conceal wrinkles.'
Helps protect skin from sun. The sun is said to be the number-one ageing agent. Mineral make-up's zinc oxide offers natural UVA-UVB protection. 'I have six to ten percent zinc in much of the line, and many of our products offer an SPF of 20 and 30,' Ranger points out. `Forty products are now rated [for protection factor], and eventually 95 per cent of the line could be rated.'
Can be used after peels. Skin procedures such as lasers and peels are common. 'Minerals are the natural choice to calm and soothe red, bruised, itchy, inflamed and flaking skin,' Ranger says.
'This product hides imperfections, then camouflages with minerals that actually block the sun, which is crucial after aggressive treatments. In fact, after certain treatments, you shouldn't use sunscreens. Minerals cool the skin and encourage faster healing,' she adds.
You can sleep in it! 'I can actually sleep with my make-up on if I need to,' York-Goldman points out. 'If I have to be up early, I apply it the night before. Plus, I know that if I work out or have a long night, my mineral make-up, which lasts longer than traditional make-up, is absolutely going to be there.'
Makes skin look better. The old make-up phrase `putting on your face' may soon be obsolete. 'I love when people tell me my skin looks great, because the make-up is obviously invisible,' York-Goldman reflects. 'It can look and feel like you're wearing nothing at all, like a silky top layer of your very own skin,' Ranger adds.
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Cool beauty tips for hot weather
BY BONNIE BING
The Wichita Eagle
When temperatures soar, it's tough to look and feel fresh and pretty.
Believe it or not, you should head to your kitchen for a variety of ways to stay cool with summer beauty treatments.
1. Cool as a cucumber
Cleopatra was right. She cooled cucumbers in the River Nile, then had them rubbed all over her body.
Use cucumbers to clean your pores and tighten skin.
Rub cucumber over your legs after shaving or waxing to soothe your skin.
2. Chill out
Drink ice water. Your body burns up to 25 calories just by turning up its metabolism in order to warm a glass of water.
3. Get into your spice rack
For an odor-eliminating foot powder, mix together one tablespoon ground ginger with one tablespoon cornstarch in a small bowl. Dust over clean, dry feet with a large blush brush. Ginger has antibacterial properties, and cornstarch has absorbent power.
4. Another cool treat for hot, smelly feet
Add three capfuls of an antiseptic mouthwash to a foot bath. Soak feet for 10 minutes. After drying, apply antiperspirant to the soles of your feet.
Add ½ cup vinegar to a foot basin of very warm water. Soak until water cools or for at least 10 minutes.
5. Get super soft feet
Cover them in whole-fat yogurt, then put on socks. Wear the socks for at least an hour and then soak off the yogurt in warm water that has a couple of chamomile tea bags in it. Pumice off rough skin, dry and apply a rich moisturizer.
Can't find your foot brush? Use a Brillo pad.
6. Treat that burn
Dip a gauze pad or small washcloth in a bowl of whole milk and apply to affected area.
Wrap a cup of oatmeal in cheesecloth or the leg from a pair of panty hose. Hang it from your faucet so the bathwater will run over it.
7. When in doubt, spritz!
Refresh your face throughout the day by carrying a spritzer bottle filled with cooled chamomile tea or plain water.
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BEAUTY IS IN THE EYES!
Dr. Stephen Greenberg
07/17/2006 5:14 pm
The eyes are your most expressive facial feature, especially for a woman, whose eyes are her best beauty asset. They express moods and emotions. The simplest and the most dramatic way to enhance your appearance is to play up your eyes with makeup. Too much strain on your eyes (or sickness) takes away some of the beauty and brightness of your eyes.
The eyelids are also often the most telling sign of a person's age. As we get older, we begin to develop droopy eyelids and/or puffy "bags" under the eyes. This process starts in the 30s and 40s and progresses more than most of us would like, as over the years the eyelid skin thins, loses tone and becomes more susceptible to gravity. The fat pockets gradually herniate forward, which can cause bags in both the upper and lower eyelid. All told, as you age, your eyes look more baggy and tired.
Eyelid surgery helps you look well-rested, alert and more youthful. Eyelid surgery (blepharoplasty) is a cosmetic procedure to remove the fat and extra skin from your upper and lower eyelids. Blepharoplasty usually takes one to two hours, depending on the extent of the surgery.
In a typical procedure, the surgeon makes incisions following the natural lines of your eyelids; in the creases of your upper lids and just below the lashes in the lower lids. The incisions may extend into the crow's feet or laugh lines at the outer corners of your eyes. Working through these incisions, the surgeon separates the skin from underlying fatty tissue and muscle, removes excess fat and often trims sagging skin and muscle. The incisions are then closed with very fine sutures.
If you have a pocket of fat beneath your lower eyelids, but don't need to have any skin removed; your surgeon may perform a transconjunctival blepharoplasty. In this procedure the incision is made inside your lower eyelid, leaving no visible scar. It is usually performed on younger patients with thicker, more elastic skin.
Your eyelids may feel tight and sore as the anesthesia wears off, but you can control any discomfort with the pain medication prescribed by your surgeon. Most people feel ready to go out in public (and back to work) in a week to 10 days. By then, depending on your rate of healing and your doctor's instructions, you'll probably be able to wear makeup to hide the bruising that remains. You may be sensitive to sunlight, wind and other irritants for several weeks, so you should wear sunglasses and a special sunblock made for eyelids when you go out.
If the eyes are the window to your soul, then why not let yours shine brightly?
Dr. Stephen Greenberg is a board-certified plastic surgeon who specializes in cosmetic surgery. He is the director of New York's Premier Center for Plastic Surgery with offices in Woodbury and Manhattan. For a complimentary consultation, call 516-364-4200. If you have a question for Dr. Greenberg, please e-mail docstg@aol.com or listen to his radio show on Sunday at 6:30 p.m. on both Party 105.3 FM and WLIR 107.1 FM.
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How far will you go for perfection?
By Allison Kirk
Perfection – a simple three-syllable word with such a complex definition. The meaning is different among individuals, but the determination to strive for it is uniting America’s population. This hunger for flawless beauty is becoming more prevalent in today’s society.
“We are not the only culture to take pride in our looks,” commented Dr. Ann Reilley of Baton Rouge’s Associates in Plastic Surgery. “Other cultures, like Egypt for example, adorned their bodies and faces with paints and jewels. It’s a human trait to alter our looks.”
What are the risks of such surface-based “happiness”?
Simple procedures, such as hair waxing and pedicures can result in serious injuries and even death. More complex procedures, such as permanent makeup tattooing, anti-aging treatments and plastic surgery can also lead to serious complications.
These complications may be the result of lack of proper precautions taken by the doctor/tech or consumer neglect of pertinent information, but some are just uncontrollable.
Hair waxing is a spa treatment in which both men and women frequently participate. Whether waxing eyebrows or backs, there are risks to this seemingly effortless procedure. For instance, the use of a Retin-A based topical product or a glycolic acid cream (both of which are components of certain anti-aging creams) prior to the procedure can result in the removal of skin along with the hair.
The acne medicine Accutane shows similar effects with hair waxing and other beauty enhancing treatments. The FDA lists possible side effects of Accutane on its Web site.
Concerning cosmetic procedures, the FDA warns Accutane users that scarring of the skin may be the consequence of skin-smoothing procedures such as waxing, dermabrasion or laser surgery. These effects are possible within six months of discontinued usage of the drug.
The FDA further states that Accutane makes the skin dry and more sensitive to light, and it directs users to avoid sunlight and ultraviolet light, especially tanning salons, as much as possible when using this product.
Pedicures are another common relaxing beauty splurge that people tend to assume is “safe” because it’s so popular.
“I get pedicures whenever I get the chance,” Giles said.
“I got a pedicure once in high school. My mom talked me into it,” said Jonathan Rose, LSU business and finance senior. “It actually felt good. They just massage your feet and clean your nails.”
However, do people forget the types of feet that swash around in that warm, bubbly water? People have come with fungus under their toenails, bacteria on their skin and infections.
Even though the negative outcomes are few compared to the number of people who get pedicures, they are still possible. The whirlpool footbaths are what WRAL, TV channel in Fayatteville, North Carolina, calls “a breeding ground for bacteria.” Fungi and bacteria, such as Staphylococcus areus, swim around in that system, almost waiting for an innocent toe to pounce on.
Infections can be on the skin or on the nails. For instance, at a California salon, 110 people contracted the Staphylococcus areus and had skin abscesses and boils. Other cases of boils and abscesses have been recorded. Nail thickness and discoloration are other symptoms that result from a fungal infection.
Alexandria, La. resident Denise Laborde contracted a fungal infection six months ago from a local salon.
“I noticed a little thickness to one of my toenails, and didn’t pay much attention to it. My daughter was painting my toenails later, and noticed that it seemed really thick. Another one was cracking with dryness. Instantly, I knew I had a fungal infection,” said Laborde, RN at Christus St. Frances Cabrini Hospital, who had gotten pedicures fairly often.
She immediately called her doctor and got on Lamisil for three months. Lamisil is a pill that requires three months of treatment to cure nail fungus, and it can be expensive.
A few months after her toenail troubles, Laborde read in a magazine a very important article that stood out to her. The article concerned pedicures and stated that “the only safe way to get a pedicure is to bring your own pan and instruments.”
Another modern but potentially troublesome procedure is permanent makeup tattooing. Increasing amounts of women find this procedure intriguing because it’s an easy time-saver for their morning routines.
However, the FDA has issued warnings about this procedure within the past few years due to reactions such as allergies and serious infections. Their main caution is the use of certain shades of the inks and dyes, especially in the red family, but also the act of breeching the skin’s surface is a caution in itself.
Like any breeching, potentially dangerous infections such as HIV and hepatitis can result. Other risks listed on the FDA’s Web site include removal problems, granuloumas (growths on the skin), keloid formation (abnormally growing scars) and MRI complications (burning and swelling of the skin in affected areas and disrupting the quality of the image).
According to a Fox News article, experts also warn of reversing colors by standard laser tattoo removal.
Dermatologist Sumayah Jamal told Fox News, “There are certain dyes used in permanent makeup that, when exposed to a laser for removal, will turn the area injected with the dye permanently black, requiring a complex surgery to fix it.”
Permanent makeup is not the only face fix-up that is becoming ever more popular. Youth has become a desirable treasure in today’s society, with men and women flocking to doctors for invasive, anti-aging cosmetic procedures, such as injections of Botox.
Botox is the shortened name for a toxin produced by a strain of bacteria originally isolated in contaminated meat. It was first used to treat crossed eyes and uncontrollable blinking by San Francisco ophthalmologist Alan Scott.
Botox has a small amount of risks that are usually temporary and associated with the injection. Some of the risks include headache, respiratory infection, flu syndrome, nausea, pain and redness, swelling and muscle weakness. When considering Botox, patients should discuss all medical conditions, current medications and supplements with their doctors.
“I would consider Botox depending on how my skin ages,” said LSU international trade and finance junior, Sara Patin. “Our society has become obsessed with perpetual youth, and I admit I will probably be jumping on that bandwagon.”
Plastic surgery is a rapidly increasing trend.
According to the Web site for A Board Certified Plastic Surgeon Resource, “Over 10 million cosmetic procedures – both surgical and non-surgical – were performed in 2005,” which is “a 222 percent increase over the past eight years.”
It lists liposuction as the most popular surgical cosmetic procedure in 2005 and Botox as the most popular non-surgical procedure.
Dr. Gary Cox of Associates in Plastic Surgery in Baton Rouge has been in the field for 12 years. He discussed the trends he’s seen recently.
“Cosmetic surgery has risen in the last five years. It’s more available to larger groups of people who are interested. It’s become more mainstream, more acceptable and more affordable,” Cox said.
According to Cox, the age range for plastic surgery consumers is 18-70 years old. He continued to list his top procedures for women and men in Baton Rouge.
In Baton Rouge, Cox said that the most common procedures for women are breast agumentation, abdominoplasty (tummy tuck), liposuction, breast lift and eyelid surgery. For men, liposuction, eyelid surgery and nasal surgery are the most frequent.
When asked about the risks of plastic surgery, Cox said, “All plastic surgery has certain risks, but significant problems are infrequent. It’s all very safe.”
Dr. Ann Reilley, also with Associates in Plastic Surgery in Baton Rouge for 21 years, discussed the improvements in surgical procedures.
“We do a lot more outpatient surgery, which therefore has a lower infection rate,” she said. “The operative procedures are faster, and there is less time under anesthesia.”
She used breast reduction as a specific example: “It used to be a four-hour operation, and recovery was four days. Sometimes blood transfusions were even necessary. Now, it’s a one to two-hour operation with no blood transfusions.”
According to Reilley, the most high-risk plastic surgery is a combination of multiple surgeries of the post-bariatric weight loss group. This is the group of people who previously underwent liposuction and now need to tighten or get rid of the extra skin. She said the part that can be risky is staging them properly and the length of the operation time.
She went on to list other risks with plastic surgery.
“There are always high-risk groups of patients, such as the obese and smokers,” she said. “Lengthy procedures are at higher risks because of possible anesthetic complications and blood clots.”
Reilley gave some advice to people planning to undergo plastic surgery, saying, “You want to pick a surgeon that has appropriate training and that you feel comfortable with.”
“You should get a recommendation from another doctor or friends who have used him. Be honest to doctor about your medical health, and follow his instructions to have best outcome possible.”
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KIDK Newswatch Three Puts A New Beauty Product To The Test
By Mary Sturgill
America seems to be obsessed with looking younger and there are thousands of products and procedures out there touting they can help you fight the aging process. Magazines devote pages and pages to beauty and commercials try to sell us products all the time. But there are so many products, how do you know which one's to buy? We chose two from one line that claims to turn back time, and we put them to the test.
We're all searching for the fountain of youth. But its illusive. Dr. Katherine Durboraw owns essence of you day spa, and the center for aesthetics in Idaho Falls she says she sees both the medical and non-medical sides of the beauty business. "One thing I've noticed and maybe its just because I am a woman too.Is that people want things that are easy to do.They don't want to go through extreme make-overs, they don't want to through lots and lots of healing and down time and so what we're really looking for is the kind of things that fit into our lifestyle that we can achieve."
Justin Rasmussen is a student at The Hair Academy in Rexburg, "Most of the time its because they want to try to fight wrinkles or aging.A lot of times, a lot of women come in because they find that the treatments are relaxing and it gives them time away from home to focus on themselves and get a little timeout." The beauty business encompasses make-up, skin and hair care, fragrances, cosmetic surgery, health clubs and diet pills. Americans spend more each year on beauty than they do on education. The beauty industry is a 160 billion dollar a year industry. And its no wonder why, because most of us do whatever we can to fight that aging process.
Spas are popping up everywhere and enrollment in schools that teach aesthetics is growing. The Hair Academy in Rexburg has been open less than a year and they already have 44 students....all hoping to help clients in that search for the fountain of youth. The number of cosmetic procedures has increased in America by over 220% since 1997. Botox injections have become the most common procedure of all with numbers raising 2,400%.
Botox is the number one treatment Dr. Durboraw's patients request, "Once you sort of try it you realize that there is nothing else that is gonna achieve that kind of affect and so you definitely come in on a very regular basis."And there are thousands of products on the market that are designed to help us win the fight against aging. Freeze 24/7 ageless skin care products boasts they can reverse the signs of aging by diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Durboraw is skeptical, "And I'm not saying products like this don't fit into the program because if you ask me what I use on my face, I use a variety of things, but if we're really saying okay, is this anti- aging, is this really gonna give us some long term affect in our aging process, um I would tell you, no, there is no way that this product is doing that."
So we put two of their products to the test; the freeze twenty four seven anti- wrinkle cream and the anti-aging eye serum. Kari Porter was brave enough to let us watch while she took a test drive. "Turning forty is dramatic enough, you need all the help you can get."
The product claims that within one to two minutes you can see a significant difference in the appearance of lines and those affects last up to twenty four hours. Dr. Durboraw questions the science behind the product, "They're saying that that gaba that's being applied topically is then - it programs an herbal product to penetrate through the skin, they'll admit that the gaba doesn't penetrate through the skin, so um their science is a little bit questionable. , and I personally don't believe that it is working in that fashion, it's probably a topical product that sort of smoothes out the skin and helping the lines look better temporarily."
Is the science wrong or right on? Kari describes what the product feels like after one minute, "kind of interesting feeling actually, it almost feels like a winter green kinda of a like you've just put in a piece of gum."
The company implies it works like Botox, freezing the face to relax those lines. "I mean I guess the true test, to determine if that product was doing the same thing as botox is to have the patient come in and start trying to perform facial expressions in the area they have applied it." When she tied it, Kari had no problem making facial expressions."so its not at all like Botox like that."
Kari's pretty happy with the products initially."but, after 8 hours it started to feel tight and it felt crumbly." So, Dr. Durboraw's prediction was right, "Historically what happens is they dry out the film starts to create these little cracks, these little white cracks, just like if you had an egg wash that you had that's dried out that forms little white cracks and then that doesn't look very good."
But Kari thought she used too much product and wanted to try it one more time."Its kinda creasing, there, a little bit of the creme but I may have put a little too much on." The second time no creasing occurred and she is happier with the product. "feels like its already absorbed in the skin, I would buy it definitely."
Overall, Kari was happy with the product but we found out you have to be very careful with how much you apply. I tried it and I found that no matter how much I put on, I still got those creases. The anti aging creme retails for 115 dollars and the eye serum is 105.
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MEN'S BEAUTY Hair today, gone tomorrow
By MARTIN WEBB
Staff writer
"Does that hurt?" asks the doctor. "Err, not really," say I. "Right, turn it up to 40," she tells the technician. Then it does kind of start to hurt. It feels as though somebody is firing a tiny laser beam into my cheek. Indeed, that is exactly what is happening.
I am here, being zapped, as part of a WEEK 3 investigation into men's beauty treatments -- they're extremely popular these days, or at least that's what the Japanese media says.
Apparently, the market for skin treatments, manicures, eyebrow plucking, electrolysis and other procedures for guys is now worth about 4.6 trillion yen per year in Japan, and new "aesthetic salons" seem to be springing up like rogue nose hairs wherever you look.
Dutifully going through the series of tiny agonies that comprise laser hair-removal has been on the cards for some hapless victim or another from the JT's Features department for some time now.
The initial idea was for an intrepid reporter to experience this as part of a planned series to be called "Lifelab," in which a couch potato would do a triathlon, somebody with two left feet would try the tango, and so on ad hilarious infinitum.
That series never came to fruition. However, I must confess in my metrosexually inclined way that cosmetic treatments are not such alien notions to me and, though I'm far too butch to admit to having had any done, a couple of stray facial hairs on my right cheek have long been a bane of my life.
Razor them off, and there in the mirror I'd seem to positively radiate. Blink, and they'd be back, staring me in the face like some monstrous appendages from a horror movie. Well, almost . . . ish.
So, when the PR rep of Kanagawa Clinic, a chain of more than 40 aesthetic-surgery clinics for men and women, asked if there was anything in particular I'd like to try out, those rogue hairs immediately sprang to mind.
But then, one rainy weekday afternoon as I trekked out to Kanagawa Clinic's Tachikawa City branch 30 minutes on the Chuo Line west of Shinjuku, I became increasingly unsure of what to expect.
Upon arrival, though, the clinic seemed just like a regular doctor's surgery. Things only began to take a tad weirdish turn when a suspiciously beautiful female doctor, Akiko Tanaka, emerged to greet me. After dutifully quizzing her about what proportion of clients were male (40 percent), and how many people the chain treated every day (8,000), I asked her what treatments she herself had had done. "Oh, everything," she replied with a demure smile. "It's much easier to explain things to patients if you have experienced them yourself."
It turns out that the most popular procedures among men are skin treatments such as mole removal (which will leave at least a 20,000 yen hole in your wallet) and laser hair removal (a snip at 150,000 yen for 10 sessions), followed by eyelid-folding surgery (envision 250,000 yen for "perfect dramatic eyes") and injections to enlarge the nose (a not-to-be-sniffed-at 30,000 yen to 250,000 yen).
Why do Japanese men want to look more Western?
"Of course, you've got a lovely big nose and double eyelids, so how could you understand?!" came the vacuously flattering reply. But apparently men do often come to the delightfully redesigned Dr. Tanaka with pictures of foreign models, saying, "I don't care how much it costs -- make me look like this guy!"
The industry perpetrates the cult of Western male attractiveness by employing foreign megastars to promote their services: Richard Gere is looking dandylike in ads for men's market leader Dandy House, which has 60 clinics, and David Beckham is looking cute for TBC, which has 34 clinics for men.
At least Japan's largest "men's esute" chain, La Parler, chose homegrown heartthrob Hiroshi Tamaki for their pricey TV advertising campaign.
But what's with this Japanese obsession to Westernize their appearance?
Probably something to do with the postwar "catch-up" mentality, or maybe even those 260 years during which Japan was closed to the outside world. Truly the stuff of a psychobabbler's wildest dreams.
For me, though, it came as a rude awakening to be told after five minutes' attention to my follicles by the exquisitely enhanced Dr. Tanaka that my inaugural men's aesthetic experience had terminated. Inaugral because, it turns out, the process is not permanent. Though I am told my pesky whiskers will drop out in a couple of days, it seems they will eventually grow back. Mind you, if I were to go for the standard, 150,000 yen course of 10 zappings, the effects would apparently be irreversible. Hmm, now there's something to pull my hair out wondering whether or not to do.
As I sheepishly rub my still-stubbly cheeks, the consummately customized Dr. Tanaka and the company's PR rep gently remind me that they have a lot of foreign customers for their LASIK laser vision correction. Dr. Tanaka has of course undergone this modification, too -- and recommends it highly. "I woke up the next day and everything was clear -- it was amazing!" she elegantly effused.
While the miracle laser eyesight cure might be appealing, I doubt that many foreigners will be vain and rich enough to subject themselves to invasive cosmetic surgery anytime soon. Certainly not the eyelid thing, anyway.
Me, I think I might even learn to cohabit with my hirsute extras, too
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Natural beauty
Jennifer Aniston, J-Lo, Nicole Kidman--the paparazzi's always on the lookout for the first signs of a baby bump.
So when J-Lo started sporting gray roots, tongues started waggin.
Cause whether you're a superstar or a stay at home mom, everyone knows, if you're pregnant dying your hair is often discouraged.
Dana, expectant mother"The baby's developing and forming and you obviously don't want to do anything to hinder that."
As Dana's doctors told her - there's a *possibility* harsh chemicals from hair dye could seep into her scalp and make their way to her unborn child.
Doctor Virginia Simmons, OB/GYN, Newton Wellesley Hospital"The concern that ammonia and peroxide could cause some kind of birth defect."
But now there's a new child friendly choice for mom's to be.Natural hair color--containing a low amount of chemicals, or even *no* chemcials at all.
Chanel Carzello, Giacomo and Rondi Salon"They're 93 percent chemical free with very low ammonia and peroxide in them and they have a lot of natural ingredients. "
Most hair dye use chemicals to help deposit the color inside the hair. The new products skip that step and just add color.
And it's not just moms-to-be who may want to go natural. A new european study finds hair dye could increase your risk of cancer.
Researchers don't know why this is--so they don't yet know if natural dyes will lower your cancer risk, but say it makes sense to be safe rather than sorry.
Ephraim Hockberg, Oncologist, Mass. General Hospital"If you choose your dye your hair at all, it makes sense to use something that has the least chemical exposure possible. So in that sense natural hair dyes are superior."
One colorful catch? Natural products can't lighten hair. So if you're looking for a sun-kissed summer shine, consider highlights. Doctors say they're safe as long as they don't touch your head.
Chanel Carzello, Giacomo and Rondi Salon"We're not touching the scalp. No chemicals touching the skin or getting in the pores."
So whether you're looking for a ravishing red, a bold brunette, or a breathtaking black, now you can become a "natural" beauty.
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Essence, Allure Offer Advertisers Beauty Tips
Stephanie D. Smith
JULY 10, 2006 -
Thanks to a wealth of new lip glosses, hair products and anti-aging moisturizers, beauty has become one of the fastest growing advertising categories for magazines. Through May, the toiletries and cosmetics category spent $909 million in magazines, a 16 percent increase compared to the same period a year prior, according to data from TNS Media Intelligence.
Fashion and beauty titles such as Condé Nast’s Allure and Time Inc.’s Essence have benefitted from the boon. Allure through May garnered $33.5 million in advertising from cosmetics, a 15 percent rise compared to the same period last year, while pages through July have grown 8.8 percent to 776, reports the Mediaweek Monitor. Essence, meanwhile, earned $14.5 million, an 8 percent gain, though ad pages have have fallen 4.2 percent through July to 741. Moreover, other magazine categories, such as celebrity weeklies and women’s service are seeing an uptick in beauty ads. For example, American Media Inc.’s Star now carries advertisers such as Pantene and Cover Girl.
As the category explodes, beauty companies have had to become savvier marketers to break through the clutter. But some have been basing their print buys on antiquated strategies and old-school reasoning. Recently, Essence and Allure unveiled new research that could help advertisers better reach both mass and targeted consumers—Essence dispelled myths and advised manufacturers how to court African American women in its latest Smart Beauty study of nearly 2,000 African American women, while Allure’s annual Catalyst Report that surveyed 1,000 women (the pool mirrored the composition of the U.S. Census) revealed new research on how women shop for beauty products and respond to ads. By unearthing what language and print placements attract consumers, the findings from both camps could help beauty brands better plan more engaging advertising campaigns. The magazines’ efforts, however, are in many ways self-serving. The hope is that these new marketing tools will be applied when buying ad pages in Allure and Essence.
Women of color age, too. While anti-aging products have been a powerful catalyst for overall growth in beauty, African American titles have not fared as well as, say, Allure. According to Nancy Cardone, Allure’s vp, publisher, skincare is the monthly’s fastest growing category, helped by new youth-preserving products from the likes of Neutrogena and Clinique. “There’s so much science and technology in the category right now,” said Cardone. Moreover, the age at which women are buying the products is much younger. “Now they start in their twenties and think of it more as a way to prevent aging.”
As for Essence, president Michelle Ebanks noted that African American titles get fewer ads from anti-aging products, especially from luxury skincare lines such as La Mer, though Essence is seeing page growth from the mass brands such as Jergen’s and Vaseline. Ebanks contended that advertisers continue to buy into the myth that women of color do not age as quickly nor spend as much on beauty products. “The mass skincare marketers are speaking directly to women of color,” said Ebanks. “Masstige skincare companies are not. The myth is that women of color don’t care about aging. We don’t wrinkle as early, but we care about it.”
Bonnie Barest, Optimedia executive vp, managing director, believes limited ad budgets may be the real culprit. “Those very high-end products have very limited budgets and may just spend in very prestige spots,” she said.
Friends are smarter than celebrities. Results from both the Smart Beauty research and the Catalyst Survey showed that word of mouth is a powerful tool for promoting beauty products. Considering that, marketers may want to rethink the use of celebrities in print campaigns to sell cosmetics. Most respondents in the Allure survey did not buy products because of celebrity plugs, but rather were driven by a special occasion, samples, magazine articles or recommendations from friends or family.
Allure recently capitalized on that fact. The magazine last fall partnered with Cover Girl to produce four custom publications geared toward achieving different styles. In August, Allure will also publish a sampling issue in which readers can try thousands of products through offers in the magazine or online.
Targeting targeted audiences. Results from the Essence survey also found that women of color often rely on recommendations from friends. Lorrie King, senior director, marketing for Baby Phat and Phat Farm fragrance, believed ads must be placed in targeted books to stay part of that conversation. “They may read everyone else—In Style, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar—but the magazines that their family and friends are talking about will most likely reside in their ethnic group,” said King.
Speak the right language. In addition to eyeing more strategic media placements, marketers also need to pay more attention to the language in print ads. Research from both Allure and Essence found that using certain words resonated better with women than others. Smart Beauty participants preferred words emphasizing natural or healthy benefits. They also responded better to language in ads or on product packaging that described their skin tone in flavors—honey, mocha, chocolate—versus light, medium or beige. Likewise, words like “natural” and “pretty” were more appreciated than “sexy” or “glamorous,” according to Allure’s Catalyst Report.
Though it may take a while for some advertisers to digest the information, both Cardone and Ebanks believe that consumer insight into the industry is key to speaking to readers effectively as beauty becomes a vital category for most titles. “For those magazines not doing well in Detroit, this is a category that all magazines want a piece of, even the men’s books,” said Cardone.
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Makeovers get macho
New salon and spa takes a masculine approach to selling men beauty treatments mostly favored by women.
By JOHN GITTELSOHN
The Orange County Register
Attention, metrosexuals. There's a new spa and salon with you in mind.
Instead of getting a manicure, you can get a "hand detailing." Facial treatments are sold as "The Power," "The Rock" or "The Cure." Memberships – including massages, hairstyling and discounts on hair and skin products – come in packages called "The Executive" or "The Chairman."
The cosmetics and beauty industry has traditionally focused on the feminine. But Profile Spa and Salon, which opened here in June, is trying to make a profit by creating a macho environment for guys to get skin exfoliation, pedicures and body waxing treatments.
The mostly female staff members serve coffees and fruit drinks. They'll shine your shoes and detail your car. Feel free to kick back with a cigar in the VIP lounge, where you can play an Xbox 360, practice on a putting green or watch sports on one of 18 flat-screen TVs.
"Men's wellness is the fastest growing part of the health and beauty industry," said Danny McCallon, 29, who co-owns Profile. "But it's still a small part of the industry."
Profile is far from Orange County's first or only establishment to offer men's spa and salon services. Nor is it the most luxurious.
The Montage Spa in Laguna Beach recently offered a four-day "Gentlemen's Surrender personal spa marathon" that includes seaweed wraps, underwater hydrotherapy massages and instructions in "the art of shaving."
But if Saturday offered any indication, there's a reason salons devote most of their energy to women. For much of the day, Profile's white barber chairs, stainless steel pedicure stands and high-tech massage studios stood vacant.
Meanwhile, its next-door neighbor, Nailtique salon, was packed with women getting their toes and fingernails filed and painted. Two doors down, women getting their hair cut and dyed filled most of the chairs at the Empire Salon.
Profile's customers usually say the experience was worthwhile. George Prince, a commercial real estate broker, set up a standing appointment for a $45 haircut, style and scalp massage. He recently quit his gym after moving to a nearby high-rise and thinks Profile will become an alternative place to network.
Jim Paulus, 57, a Newport Beach food products broker, said he quit his barber of 25 years since trying Profile.
"As you get older, you need to take better care of yourself. Not that it takes a lot to cut this," Paulus said, pointing to a receded hairline.
Matt Wessels, a personal training manager at the Equinox Fitness Club, received a 25-minute, $70 facial called "The Power."
"In my industry, appearance is important," he said. "And this feels good."
June Harper, his "skin therapist," slathered on creams to exfoliate and moisturize Wessels' face, explaining the reason for each procedure, massaging his shoulders while a facial mask did its work.
"I'm not only helping him feel and look good. I'm educating him," Harper said.
"I would recommend it," Wessels said after his treatment, relaxing on the massage table, looking … educated.
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Beauty by knife
By Lady Ochel C. Espinosa
For those with etiquette, they do not blurt it out; they merely think it - and bask in the knowledge that they are a few pounds lighter.
People have recently told me that I lost weight, to which I have reacted with a smile - that was bound to be a compliment, wasn't it? I've actually heard people say "thanks" when I tell them that they have lost weight. But a thought suddenly struck me: "Since when was being thin a criterion for being beautiful? How many other screwed-up notions do we have about beauty?"
Screwed up notions
Pages in broadsheets scream cosmetic enhancement -- a world where cellulite is a mortal sin, and true love is a cup size away. I know that it has been said countless times that Media is to be blamed for our obsession with Western standards of beauty. "I think we underestimate how much power the Western media still have on the East," says fashionista and registered medical technologist Trish Bolivar. "In almost every movie you go to, the star is Western. You establish in your mind that they are more beautiful."
According to an article in Asia Week, "...the most popular cosmetic surgical procedures in Asia are the 'double-eyelid operation' and nose-bridge surgery, in which bone is shaved from a patient's hip or rib and piled on to the existing nose bone. Both are usually intended to make a patient look more Western."
Despite this overwhelming awareness of what is wrong with our mentality, we still choose to undermine our Asian features and live as eternal Caucasian beauty copycats.
Worm's eye view
It doesn't help that we live in an age where beauty is bought, and tampering with nature is a lucrative business. With this in mind, the only thing that's stopping anyone is the cost. Still, an estimated 10 million people will undergo surgical enhancement this year. Surgery has become something commercialized, no longer the taboo it once was.
No wonder all types of medical practitioners have rushed into this field, regardless of being qualified or not. Thus, there is an increasing need to make an informed choice when choosing to go under the knife. Otherwise, you may be a victim of an extremely effective promotional campaign.
Keep in mind that tampering with nature has its consequences -- you may end up with a surgeon who will do more bane than boon. For instance, there was the case of Janet Ang, a 36-year-old Filipina stewardess who died of irreversible shock (occurs when a patient experiences severe pain) while undergoing thigh liposuction.
Another case was Mona Alley's tummy tuck in South Florida, wherein the doctor accidentally pierced through her abdominal wall and feces spilled over to her stomach. Her legs were amputated because of severe blod clots.
More morbid examples are not needed for you to get the point. Beauty can be bought at a price -- but sometimes, the price one pays is an amputated limb, or worse, death.
Deal or no deal?
Our misconceptions about beauty may bring about similar fates. Going under the knife is not wrong, but make sure you do it for the right reasons, and not because of the insecurities that society has imposed on you.
Just think that last year, sun-kissed, black-haired and full-bodied Precious Lara Quigaman beats 51 beauties around the world by winning Miss International. After 26 years, a Filipina beauty was again crowned! Caucasians were only awarded as runners-up.
Perhaps this is a sign that we should reassess our standards of the beautiful Filipina -- we are Beauty Queen material, after all.
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Redefining natural beauty
By Al IrwinTimes Reporter
Jul 09 2006
It’s a Girl Thing, a new shop in Willowbrook, was the outcome of Dawn Lees’ interest in things natural and healthful.
A professional makeup artist for the past eight years, Lees began extensively researching natural body lotions, bath and beauty products, and makeup lines, and opened a unique and inviting shop about six months ago, at No. 5 – 19950 Willowbrook Drive.
“I did a lot of research. I talked to companies, to distributors. And I tried everything on myself.”
Lees says that everything put on the skin is absorbed by the body.
“Why would you put something on your skin that you wouldn’t put in your mouth?”
Having said that, Lees is pragmatic. Not everything she sells is 100 per cent natural, particularly scents and cosmetics, in which it is difficult to achieve the subtle essence, or durable quality, from wholly natural products.
But she strives to ensure all products are high in antioxidants, and if not 100 per cent natural, as free of chemicals as possible.
“Most of these products are beneficial,” she said.
Her shop appears, at first glance, and is often mistaken as an upscale spa, its welcoming waiting room opens to a spacious product area. But services are limited to makeup lessons, application of makeup and brow shaping, although all her employees are makeup professionals, who are happy to take time with customers to explain the products, and their use.
For Lees, part of the joy of her business, is helping people to feel better about themselves.
“I’ve had people come in to thank me, after I’ve shown them how to put makeup on. It makes me feel good to know they feel better about themselves.”
She does not claim all of her products are non-allergenic, because some people do have allergies to certain plant, vegetable or fruit products. But people with allergies, to chemicals found in many common makeup products, can definitely benefit from a natural approach.
“This cleared up my skin, and makes it as nice as when I was a teenager,” she says of one lotion.
Many of her products, while not obscure, are generally not well known locally.
“Pretty much everything (in stock) is unique.”
About 90 per cent of her products are imported from the United States, but many of her U.S. suppliers import ingredients for their products from around the world.
Other products are produced in Great Britain and China.
One of her favourites, Bella Lucce, a line of bath, body and skin care products, utilizes “the best of the best ingredients,” including Belgian chocolate and Munu honey.
Erbaviva is a natural line that is particularly recommended for moms and babies, and expectant mothers. Erbaviva includes milk baths, baby soaps and cream. And what expectant moms put on their skins can impact the baby, she notes.
There are also peppermint foot scrubs, and a very effective cradle cap oil.
Body and Soul, and Ramy are her two main cosmetic lines.
“I like these two lines the best so far. I like his (Ramy Gafni’s) philosophy. He is a cancer survivor.”
Lees says that during his cancer treatment, Gafni, a makeup artist, lost his job “because he wasn’t the pretty boy.”
He developed a line of colours and products with the emphasis on “minimum makeup, maximum impact.”
Many of his products are very versatile, and can be used on eyes, cheeks and lips.
Body and Soul is a makeup line used on the set of Desperate House Wives, and was formerly on the set of Friends.
“It is a wonderful professional line.”
Other lines include Eyeko, Rock Hard (a lip gloss line) and Jaqua.
It’s a Girl Thing even stocks a line of concealers and powder for men – Menaji.
And Lees expects that a new mineral line, called “Haut Cosmetics,” will be in before the end of July. It is a natural makeup line.
“I just received word that it will be here late next week,” said Lees.
Besides bath and body and makeup lines, Lees stocks a few health products, like a green tea extract, high in anti-oxidants. She says that one dropper full of the extract is equivalent to 10 to 15 cups of green tea. The extract is recommended for weight loss (it aids in blocking the absorption of carbohydrates), it aids in balancing blood sugar levels, and may have a beneficial impact on the immune system, among numerous other benefits.
Also in stock are a few other elixers or tonics, which include products like ginseng.
Opening hours are: Monday to Wednesday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thurday to Friday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday, noon to 4 p.m.
For more information: info@agirlthing.ca; phone 604-539-1181; or www.agirlthing.ca.
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Home-Made Beauty & Skin-Care Recipes
Our updated list of homemade beauty products. Sugar does more than sweeten your coffee.
Easy to make health and beauty products from the fruit and veggie bin and other products in your home cabinets. I have read that in the 1700s, aristocratic women used to ingest a small amount of arsenic to whiten their skin. You can be sure that their translucent complexion did not come from good health! I suggest drinking 6 to 8 glasses of water a day to keep skin clear and a little cocoa butter applied to the skin lighten and brighten instead.
Our newest beauty hint comes from Tamisa M. Covington, she says:
Vannie,
I have a GREAT homemade beauty tip....
Sugar Body Scrub or Slough your Troubles Away
16 ounces of fragrance free lotion or cold cream (I prefer Nivea)
2 cups of raw sugar (you can add more sugar if you want)
bowl with a lid
Mix the lotion/cold cream and raw sugar together for the most fabulous and affordable sugar body scrub. Apply it to knees, elbows, feet or all over for a great exfoliant.
Whatever you don't use refrigerate for up to two weeks.
I hope this helps you, Vannie! Good luck!
Tamisa M. Covington
Apropos
www.apropos-etiquette.com
Thanks Tamisa,I did try this--it works wonderfully well. I have used many of the skin recipes* below myself. I use witch hazel straight from the bottle as an astringent.
Skin Care
Use witch hazel as an astringent instead of pricey products. It also cleans makeup from skin without drying it.
Cool Banana pulp is a face plumping moisturiser. Mash banana, apply to face, rinse with cool water after 15 minutes.
Oatmeal in whole milk made into a helps to slough dead skin and tighten pores. Apply with a damp face cloth and gently clease face.
Cucumber slices placed over eyes will soothe them.
Tomato pulp tightens skins and is a great remedy for blackheads.
Cucumber juice patted on face and left to dry will deminish the appearance of wrinkles.
Make a mask of plain yogurt to restore the natural acidity balance to your skin. Leave on for 15 minutes then rinse face in cool water. Pat dry.
Body Care
pour powered milk into bath water for a skin softening bath. Add oatmeal if skin is dry and itchy.
Rub lemon peel over elbows and knees to help get rid of uneven rough dark spots.Hair Care
Vinegar makes a good hair rinse for oily hair. Add 1 ounce of apple cider vinegar to 1 quart of distilled water. Keep in refrigerator.
Add 1/2 cup of lemon juice to 1 quart of cool water for your final hair rinse to help prevent drandruff.
Eyes
Don't throw that used tea bag away. Drink your tea then use the tea bag if your eyes are tired and puffy swollen.
Apply hemmoroid cream under the eyes to lessen puffiness.
Cucumber slices are great eye soothers.
To diminish undereye puffiness for the evening use a little Preperation H to temporarily tighten the skin.
Use vaseline to tame your eyebrows.
First Aid
Keep white vinegar in refrigerater for burns from stove or sunburn. Pour over burns to help stop blister. Pat on sunburn.
Witch Hazel soothes the pain and swelling of insect bites.
Pimples
Dot Milk of Magnesia on pimples at night or when you are home (alone) to help dry them away.
Dot plain white tooth paste (do not use gels) on pimples to dry them.
Dabbing eye drops on your pimple will get rid of redness for a short time.Miscellaneous
Use scar gel on darkened/rough elbows and knees. It will get rid of dark spots and soften the skin.
Use a small bit of white tulle netting to gently buff dead skin away. You can buy it from any store that sells fabric.
Mix 2 parts baking soda to one part salt brush teeth. It removes plaque and whitens. Do not swallow mixture. Rinse mouth until salt taste gone.
Take a stress release bath. Toss 2 to 3 handfuls of table salt in tub of hot water. Close eyes and relax. *These tips are for information only-Do not use any salt hints if you suffer from high blood pressure.
Hone your skills for work and family and you hone them for living life to the fullest
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Tanned skin: Beauty, or danger?
Ennis BarberyPrinceton Times
By ENNIS BARBERYfor the Princeton Times
PRINCETON — Anywhere in the United States where there are women in bikinis, there is bound to be an expanse of golden skin. With an estimated 28 million people tanning indoors annually, bronze is apparently one of Americans’ favorite colors. And, for many, a tan is a rite of summer.
According to Lois Comerose, manager of Body Elements in Princeton, her salon alone provides tanning services for 150 to 200 people each day.
“I think people tan because it makes them feel better and look better,” Comerose said. Since the absorption of sunlight is proven to aid the body in processing Vitamin D, she said some clients believe that tanning benefits their health and just makes them feel more relaxed.Another benefit many salons tout in the controversy over indoor tanning is that many indoor tanning beds, such as the high-pressure beds at Body Elements, block the majority of UVB rays, which are believed to be the cause of the obvious skin reddening that sometimes occurs immediately following sun exposure.
However, all tanning beds still emit UVA rays, which are also responsible for sunburns, premature aging, and sometimes skin cancer.
According to Tanning Trends magazine, “Moderate tanning has never been linked scientifically to skin cancer. In fact, by helping people tan with a reduced incidence of sunburn, indoor tanning may reduce your risk of ever contracting skin cancer.”
However, Dermatologist Dr. David Tolliver, of DermOne, would disagree with this statement.
“Any tan is a sign of injury to the skin,” he explained.
In fact, a study by the Skin Cancer Foundation of New York found that mice exposed to small daily doses of ultraviolet light over a period of time, such as someone who tans regularly at a salon, actually developed more wrinkling and skin cell damage than mice who received the same amount of energy in a few big doses resulting in sunburns.“
I would never recommend indoor or outdoor tanning to anyone, and I don’t think any credible dermatologist would,” Tolliver said. “I see 30-year-olds everyday who say that they would never have tanned if they knew what they would look like today.”
And, the tanning debate is not just about looks. Every year, more than 1 million people are diagnosed with skin cancer in the United States. Despite the fact that most tanning salons require parents to sign a release explaining the risks of indoor tanning before anyone under age 18 is allowed to tan, people are being diagnosed with skin cancer younger and younger.
“I see people in their 20s who have skin cancer, which until recently was unheard of,” Tolliver said.
He also explained that, although people with naturally darker skin have some protection against the damaging effects of sun exposure, everyone is at risk of developing skin cancer.
Some signs that may indicate skin cancer are: a skin abnormality that increases in size and appears multicolored, pink, red, black, brown, tan, pearly, or translucent; a mole that changes on color or texture, grows, becomes irregular in shape, or that is larger than a pencil eraser; a spot or growth that continually itches, hurts, becomes crusty, scabs, or bleeds; or an open sore that does not heal after four weeks or one that heals and reopens.
According to Christy Smith, an Estee Lauder Beauty Advisor at Belk in Mercer Mall, sunless tanning products are a popular and safe alternative to indoor or outdoor tanning. The sunless tanning industry offers an array of products that temporarily bronze skin without the risk of wrinkles or skin cancer later in life. Having developed melanoma, Smith knows firsthand about the dangers of excessive exposure to the sun. Her advice to others would be, “Just take care of your skin. It stays with you for a lifetime.”
In the end, medical experts said the issue of whether to tan comes down to a few simple questions: Is tanning worth the risk? If it means damaging your health, is tan really beautiful?
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Summer beauty in the comfort of your own home
The Body Shop At Home is the latest beauty service that allows you to get everything you need to look beautiful this summer – all in the comfort of your own sitting room. The party-planning arm of The Body Shop allows you to discover the store’s latest skincare ranges and makeup marvels without even getting out of your armchair! So whether you’re heading off to the beach or a friend’s wedding – you’ll find everything you need at a The Body Shop At Home party…
BEACH BEAUTIFUL
Looking for some help getting your skin ready for your summer holiday? You’ve booked the flights, reserved your hotel room and bought your bikini but the contents of your make-up bag has seen better days and your beauty regime has left a lot to be desired over the winter!
Well help is at hand…and it’s closer than you think! One of The Body Shop At Home consultants can provide you with advice about the skincare regimes and beauty products that will leave you looking glorious and glamorous for the summer – all in the comfort of your own home!
Not only can The Body Shop At Home help you with your beauty tips for the summer, it also can help out with great gift ideas and indulgent body treatments – from facials to foot massages – all brought to a venue of your choice.
WEDDING BELLES
Most brides-to-be want to do something different for their last night of freedom but, as any hen knows, the more unusual the event, the more expensive it often turns out to be! For an affordable alternative to a hen night that includes all the crucial ingredients of relaxation, pampering and fun – look no further than hosting a The Body Shop At Home party!
One of our beauty consultants can organise a hen party at a venue of your choice, so all the hens have to do is crack open the bubbly, put on some music and sit back and relax while discovering the fantastic range of The Body Shop products. The host can even indulge herself with a free pampering treat – from a hand massage to a facial.
Why not use the evening to discover some of The Body Shop’s new products? Experience the exciting new Spa Wisdom range that is designed to soothe mind, body and soul – perfect for those pre-wedding jitters! The Spa Wisdom range contains nine beautiful products, inspired by centuries of spa secrets, with luxurious and exotic global ingredients for the ultimate indulgent at-home experience.
The bride-to-be might also be interested the new Skin Focus range, to help give her skin a radiant glow! This scientifically developed collection utilises the latest skin care technology to create four remarkable products that each spotlight a specific area of the face. Re-texturising Peel and Face Illuminator for the complexion, Line Minimiser for the eye area and Lip Enhancer for lips. Each product delivers an instant, visible improvement in the appearance of the skin.
With such great products to choose from and all in the comfort of your own home, this will be the easiest hen party ever organised! Hosts simply have to choose a theme, invite the guests and then it’s over to the consultant to do all the hard work!THE BODY SHOP AT HOME
The Body Shop At Home is the party-planning arm of The Body Shop and was launched in 1994. It aims to give busy women the chance to enjoy a personalised shopping experience at home while also creating a fun, social event for the host and her girl friends.
The Body Shop At Home is perfect for summer treats, birthday parties, nights In with the girls and, of course, hen parties. It can also help you find the perfect gift for a special friend or relative. To find out more about joining The Body Shop At Home party – as a host or a beauty consultant – you can visit www.uk.thebodyshop.com or call 08459 05 06 07.
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Designer touts beauty of linen
By Kathryn Wexler
Miami Herald
"Wrinkles are beautiful," says Adolfo Dominguez, sitting in the lounge of the Setai Hotel in South Beach, Fla., during a recent business trip.
The Spanish designer could well be talking about creases of the face, he says later. But at the moment, he is repeating his motto of two decades, speaking to the splendor of linen: the fabric (and its wrinkles) that made him famous.
"They'll always be beautiful."
In Europe and parts of Asia, Dominguez, 56, is a big deal. His publicly traded company has more than 330 boutiques worldwide. He recently designed new uniforms for the Spanish airline Iberia.
But he has a single shop in the United States, Adolfo Dominguez, on the second floor of the Village of Merrick Park, in Coral Gables, Fla., and open less than two years. Now he is preparing to close that boutique and open a bigger one on the third floor. Others will likely follow in Miami or the southern states, where the warm weather and style sensibility fit his line, he says.
"My thought is opening close to the border at first," says Dominguez, slight of build, and wearing an oatmeal cashmere sweater and white linen pants.
Dominguez made his mark in the ready-to-wear industry in the 1980s with linen garments that wrinkled with the weather. It was a material from his childhood; his grandmother grew it and sewed with it.
But using the fabric for formal wear was a radical step at a time when you weren't considered well-dressed if your clothing wasn't meticulously pressed.
"When I started to sell linen," he says, "I had to persuade people."
Selling flaxen clothing today requires a different kind of persuasion. The rough, natural fabric often conjures up tiresome, potato-sack dresses or boxy shirts. But there's none of that all-too-quaint beachy stuff in Dominguez's collections, made from exquisite blends, smart tailoring and up-to-the-minute cuts.
His styling is city all the way. In fact, many of his creations will have you checking the labels to see if linen is even listed; to wit, a sleek silvery evening gown, $633, and a paint-splattered arty sundress, $233.
Many articles in his high-end and diffusion line (called U, for "urban,") are hand-printed, with all the intimacy and endearing irregularities the method affords. His colors hum.
"In anything, you need to put poetry inside," he says. "That's my style: functionality with poetry inside."
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Stealing beauty
From News.com.au
July 02, 2006
Avoid make-up faux pas; take a few tips from the experts. By Helen Hawkes.I don't know about you but if I was the beauty police, I'd be issuing tickets all over town. Minor infringements would include lipstick on the teeth, mascara blobs on lashes and foundation with a demarcation line. I'd save the really big guns for clown-like blush, eyebrows tweezed out of existence and overdrawn lipliner. Of course, I'm guilty of the occasional assault myself: failure to replace eye shadows or mascaras after oh, five seasons, fear of eyelash curlers and persistently choosing the wrong shade of lipstick. With a new make-up season ahead of us, it's time to'fess up and make amends. As make-up guru to the stars Napoleon Perdis says, it's never too late for anyone to learn to make the most of their beauty - day and night. We asked Perdis, Melbourne-based make-up artist for True Solutions International, Andrew Christie, and owner of Mecca Cosmetica, Jo Horgan, to give us a few guidelines on going straight, no matter whether it's for work or a date, as well as some pointers for the new season.
prime suspect"Not to prime is a crime," says Perdis. Why? Because primer on the face, eyelids or lips, helps foundation, eyeshadow and lipstick glide on more smoothly and stay in place. Try Napoleon Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Primer, $45, Nars Makeup Primer, $90, or Clarins Instant Light Perfecting Touch, $36. Horgan also suggests Prescriptives Flawless Skin, $79 (5).
concealing evidenceConcealing old products at the back of your vanity cabinet could be the reason you see women still wearing bright blue eye shadow from the 70s. "Every woman should throw out some make-up every season and replace it," says Perdis. "It's the same as updating your wardrobe. Don't hang onto old colours that won't enhance your new look."
base actsGetting foundation right is essential, morning or night, but it's also tricky. Colour is where most women commit unlawful acts. Forget about trying a shade on your hand or wrist - try it on your face! Consider texture too. What you want from a foundation may vary between day and evening, so treat yourself to a couple of choices. Clinique Colour Tint, $52, is oil-free and contains flattering line-correcting pigments; Revlon Colorstay Makeup, $34.95, boasts super staying power so it won't rub or kiss off; Aveda's Inner Light Liquid Foundation, $49.95, is great for medium coverage; and Napoleon Minimal Makeup, $55 (4), provides good coverage but still looks natural. If you're planning on sleeping in your make-up, id bare Minerals SPF 15 Foundation, $65 (6), is the way to go. Composed of pure, crushed minerals, it won't irritate the skin.
eye witnessThis season's eyes are intense. You'll find dark blues, lavenders, greys and even greens like Innoxa Line & Define Eye Colour in Blue and Olive, $10.95; Biguine Black Purple and Black Blue, $33; Napoleon Ultra Pearl in Amytheste, $24 (7), Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow Quad in Plum Seduction, $66. A little powder and liner creates just a hint of allure on the lids for daytime glamour; piled on, the look gives off serious night-time heat. "For intense colour, stay soft, then intensify slowly," says Christie. If you have small eyes, graduate the colour - darkest by the lash line and lightest at the brow bone. Fair lashes can be overpowered by intense colour on the lids, so always curl your lashes and pile on two coats of mascara.
swimming with the fishesStill making a fish face when you apply blush? "You want to apply the product to the apples of your cheeks only and your aim is to make it look like you've had the best one-night stand ever or like you've just worked out at the gym," says Christie. This season, Horgan suggests Nars Guele De Nuit Cream Blush, $60 (8). "This peachy, brown shade provides just the right amount of 'flush' to cheeks." For a dramatic evening look, plum can be flattering on cheeks, but use a sheer version like Clinique Touch Blush in Plush Plum, $43.
clean slateNo matter what you put on, be professional about taking it off. Try Dr Le Winn's Derma-Wash Facial Cleanser, $32.95 (1), which dissolves excess oils and contains soothing aloe vera gel; alcohol-free Refining Toner, $32.95; and, to finish, Oil Free Day & Night Cream, $64.95, with multivitamins, antioxidants and herbal extracts.
smoke and mirrorsSmokey eyes are ideal for night-time glamour, says girl-about-town and cosmetics queen Tali Shine. "False eyelashes are also a fun way to add glamour." Apply two or three to the outside corner of the eyelashes. "Adding some pearly, luminous powder on cheeks and just under brows can also amp up your look."
highbrow defenceEyebrows are important this season, so don't overpluck, underpluck or pluck in the wrong places. And if you don't know what any of this means, have a professional eyebrow shaping. Even then you may need to make up brows to fit the season's high-definition look. A brow powder, like Laura Mercier's, $45, will stick to fine down hair to give the illusion of three dimensions. A waxy liner will tend to melt or move, so avoid it. And don't go more than two shades darkerthan your natural brow. There is no defence for that painted-on eyebrows look, even at a late-night soiree.
crossing the lineRepeat after me: liner after lipstick, says Perdis, and never, ever, over the natural lip line. To make lips look bigger, go lighter with a soft gloss like Tali Lip Gloss in Portofino Princess, $19.95 (3), or id bareMinerals Sweet Pink Gloss, $39; or a light colour lipstick like Innoxa Pure Indulgence Lip Colour in Faithful, $14.95. To sizzle in reds try Chanel Rouge Hydrabase, $42, or Napoleon DeVine Goddess, $30; or pout in plums like Innoxa's Love That Lipstick in Velveteen, $14.95, and Clinique Stay The Day Lip Colour in True Bloom, $42. For those who failed lipstick for dummies, try Biguine's Soft Kiss Rouge A Levres, $35 (2), a high-shine liquid lipstick with its own tube-top applicator.
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