Fragrantly Beautiful

Tanning Creams All Have One Thing In Common

Creams, Bronzers, Sprays All Use DHA

Diane Kockler, Staff writer

The coming of fall and winter may mean less time outside, but it doesn't have to mean giving up that golden glow, because sunless tanners have come a long way, baby. The risk of turning orange overnight from a self-tanning lotion has greatly diminished in the last 30 years. Some products will gradually turn your skin a few shades darker over several days, while bronzers can give an immediate golden glow, and there is a surplus of other options.

In recent years, hundreds of new tanning lotions and sprays have been introduced, and the products keep coming. Dr. Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist who writes a health and beauty advice column at DERMAdoctor.com, said companies constantly tweak the scent and the darkness of the tan you get from product.

But one thing all sunless tanners have in common is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which has been used since the Food and Drug Administration approved it for cosmetics in 1973.

"They're the same active ingredients, so what's going to vary by product is its concentration of DHA, which (gives) a darker or lighter tan. You just pick the vehicle you prefer," Kunin said.

After a product with DHA is applied, a chemical reaction occurs between the self-tanner and the uppermost layer of dead skin cells, Kunin said. After several hours, a color change occurs as the skin cells become stained brown. The color will stick around only about four days.

Kunin said the color will fade more quickly for those who use skin-care products that speed up exfoliation such as microdermabrasion creams, skin scrubs and products that contain alpha hydroxy acid, beta hydroxy acid or a retinoid.

No Protection
Kunin said self-tanners aren't harmful, but what dermatologists are concerned about is the myth that using a self-tanner will protect you from the sun.

"A self-tan is like a skin stain -- it doesn't provide any protection against the sun or from ultraviolet damage," Kunin said.

She said it's best to apply a separate sunscreen daily, even if you're using a sunless tanner that claims to have some sun protection.

Kunin advises to always pick a sunless tanner, rather than using a tanning bed or lounging outside. She said tanning beds can cause skin cancer and should always be avoided.

"Spending 20 minutes in a tanning bed is equal to spending an entire day on a tropical beach without sunscreen," Kunin said. "I understand why people like a little color, but don't get in a tanning bed. It's a carcinogen."

Self-Tanning Not Effortless
But if you really want some color, you may need to show a little effort with a self-tanner.
"It's best to approach self-tanner use as ongoing maintenance. Plan to reapply it every few days, regardless of whatever else you may include in your beauty routine," Kunin wrote in a recent column.

In addition to the potentially quick fade, the other main complaints consumers have about self-tanners are that they can stain hands and clothes, and it can be challenging to apply the product evenly across your body.

Kunin advises people to never apply a self-tanner with their hands. She suggests wearing disposable gloves and immediately washing hands after applying the tanner. All sunless tanners can stain clothing, so be sure to give ample drying time before dressing.

For those who are worried about uneven coloring, they might prefer using a tanning spray at a salon, which gives all-over color in one application. One of the most popular professional sprays is called Mystic Tan, which is delivered by a series of jets in a booth and dries in several minutes.

"That's the beauty of the Mystic Tan as a brand name -- you go in a booth and they spray the DHA at you," Kunin said.

Potential Dangers
Some doctors are concerned about the potential danger of inhaling the chemicals.

"It is not recommended that sprays be inhaled or used on mucous membranes," said Dr. Sherry Pagoto, a researcher at the University of Massachusetts Medical School.

To avoid potential health problems, experts recommend wearing noseplugs and holding your breath when the Mystic Tan is sprayed, which is about 30 seconds.

Also, Kunin recommended not getting caught up in the hype about facial self-tanners, which cost more than body tanners and often come in smaller sizes.

"There's often no reason to purchases two or three products. Purchase the one you like best and use it wherever you fancy," Kunin wrote.

Regardless of which sunless tanner you choose, Kunin said it's best to exfoliate the body with a skin scrub before applying the product.

"This makes for a more even application, reduces streaking and odd-looking dark elbows, knees and ankles," Kunin wrote.

Try, Tan Again
It make take several tries before you find a self-tanner you like.

"If you are unhappy with your first attempt at using a self-tanner, all you need to do is wait a few days and the color will be gone. Then you can try it all over again," Kunin wrote.

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posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 10:15 AM